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Cabo Corrientes, a Place to Escape

"I closed my eyes and dreamt that I was in a different place. When I opened them, I saw fireflies lighting the path into total darkness. There were no signs of a city or modern amenities, just me and nature..."

For a little change of scenery, out of town yet still relatively close to Puerto Vallarta, check out Cabo Corrientes in the South Coast of Jalisco State . This is not like your typical boat trip to the beaches of Quimixto or Yelapa. Getting here takes you through the lush tropical mountains arriving eventually back on the shores of the Pacific at the southernmost point of Banderas Bay with untouched pristine white sand beaches and clear turquoise water.

The 44-kilometer drive on Highway 200 to El Tuito takes almost an hour. The highway has plenty of curves, so drive with the utmost caution. El Tuito means “a place of beauty” and comes from the word “Teotl.” It is the home to almost 4,000 people and is the headquarters for the municipal government of Cabo Corrientes.

El Tuito

Time seems to stand still in the atmosphere of the small village, and there are few such places left.

El Tuito has an attractive town square; with pillars housing birds, palm trees and a marvelous tree the locals call “María.” Homes here are covered with local clay and feature classic tile roofs, making the town very colorful and uniform. Perhaps this is why it is included in the Federal listing of “Typical Villages of Mexico” in 2006.

El Tuito offers an array of local and regional products you must sample: organic coffee, sugar cane candy, brown sugar, raicilla and their famous panela cheeses.

Where to Go?

El Patio de Don Alfonso

Across the street from the main plaza, this plantation was founded in 1525 by Spaniard Guadalupe Michel, who sheltered Porfirio Díaz in his war against Don Benito Juárez in 1872. Your tour guide Luis, an Architect, has renovated the plantation, maintaining its original features, and has hung pre-Columbian art he has gathered from throughout Mexico. Portal Morelos #3, open from Mon-Sun, 10:00am-6:00pm. Voluntary dontations.

Clay Crafts

Don Fernando Castillón, also known as “the artisan of El Tuito,” specializing in clay figurines. All his work has a pre-Hispanic motif, such as the calimote dog. His large selection of pottery includes traditional clay jugs used to keep water cold, in addition to a pair of feet used to display jewelry for that part of the body.

Don Fernando demonstrates the clay process, explaining that it can take up to 16 hours to complete a single piece. With lots of pride and a love of craftsmanship, he shows off his kiln and the place he stores his unfired clay, a bit like Play Dough. You will see tiny clay houses here that represent the actual inhabitants of El Tuito and are guarded by “Xoloitzcuintle”dogs pronounced, Sho-low-eets-queen-tlee, a mostly hairless breed originating with the Aztecs. Because of their elaborate detailing, these little houses can take up to five days to build. Located in Calle Mina #13, open 9:00am-7:00pm. Tel. (322) 269-0088.

How to get here? - From Puerto Vallarta to El Tuito: 1 hour. There are two options for a bus to El Tuito: a bus destined for Manzanillo that makes a stop in El Tuito or the bus to El Tuito that leaves each hour. You can board both buses on Venustiano Carranza at the corner of Aguacate Street ($22 pesos).

Las Guásimas

After visiting El Tuito, Las Guásimas is worth a visit. A village of only 50 people, about 20 minutes from El Tuito on the un-paved road leading to Chacala.

Where to Go?

Here, the Hacienda El Divisadero, owned by Don Tino Carvajal, produces raicilla, a traditional drink similar to tequila but made from a different variety of agave plant a called, “lechuguilla,” native to this region

This hacienda is also a rustic hotel and restaurant. After visiting the distillery and becoming familiar with the raicilla process, try the tasty barbequed food, including lamb marinated shepherd style, beef, accompanied by guacamole, beans, freshly made tortillas and tostadas with cottage cheese. You can accompany your meal with a delicious fruit margarita made with raicilla. The ambiance is all natural, with a panoramic view of agaves as far as the eye can see. You also can ride horses, explore the local vegetation and visit the petroglyphs. And if you wish, you can spend the night in this rustic yet enchanting hotel. Located in Camino Tuito-Chacala Km 9, Las Guásimas, tel. (322) 225 2171 Ext.101

Do not miss the petroglyphs, among Las Guásimas’ most important attractions. Turn from the un-paved road onto a 300-meter path. These enormous rocks feature carvings that represent Mexican ancestry and symbols that pre-date the alphabet.

On the Road to Paradise…

Tehuamixtle

The 40-kilometer trip from El Tuito to Tehuamixtle, better known as Tehua, takes approximately one hour and a half. The dirt road receives constant maintenance and is in good condition.

The sand here is soft and white, and the surf is gentle, perfect for kayaking, snorkeling, taking a boat trip, visiting “La Bufa” a natural geyser near the seashore, and see a colorful mermaid figure carved into a rock formation. Also, between Mayto and Tehua, there is a small hidden cove appropriately named “la playita del amor” (Lover’s Beach).

Tehua’s Other Enchantments

Tehua is known for its oysters and features a commercial oyster farm, which was founded in 2005 to protect natural resources. The 2 to 3mm oyster “seeds” are brought in from Sonora, Ensenada and La Paz. Here, they are transferred onto a mosquito net bed, which is then covered and lowered into the ocean. Submerged concrete blocks, called “muertos,” and their associated lines, called “madre,” hold the mosquito netting. There the seeds begin to absorb the carbons necessary to start forming shells. They must be cleaned every three days.

Within two months, after reaching a size of two to three centimeters, they are transferred into trays, which must be cleaned every 15 days. The average is four trays stacked on top of each other and tethered to the “madre” line. The entire process takes seven to 8 months, until the oysters mature to 5cm.

In addition to fresh oysters, Tehua is a sea turtle sanctuary. Here there is a camp directed by biologist Rodrigo Castellanos where you will find Portuguese Students volunteering to help with turtle conservation.

Here in what essentially the small fishing village of Tehua, you must try the seafood. There are three restaurants along the pier—Liz Adriana, Cade and La Galleta—all serving excellent seafood, including shrimp ceviche.

Stay to admire the glorious sunset. And if night falls, enjoy the natural spectacle of fireflies. If you choose to stay the night, there are no hotels, but it IS possible to rent rooms. You need only ask a local. The cost is $400 pesos per room, not per person.

How to get here? - From El Tuito to Tehua: 2 hours. Monday to Saturday at 2:00 pm, a bus departs from the main plaza in El Tuito ($45 pesos). From Tehua to El Tuito board the bus in the field close Los Arcos in Tehua at 7:15 am ($45 pesos).

Villa del Mar

The roads that lead to Mayto, Tehua and Villa del Mar all seem to converge in Tehua. If you find yourself lost or with car trouble, don’t be surprised to find a good natured local happy to offer assistance or a ride to a nearby village. It is all part of the warm friendly atmosphere of this area.

At Villa del Mar, the first thing you will notice the white sand and the powerful surf. Area residents do not recommend swimming here unless you are an expert.

This is a great place to enjoy a few days away from civilization, maybe taking a trip on horseback or mountain bike, visiting the dairies and trying some of the cheeses produced here. And you needn’t worry about the food, since the restaurant offers seafood caught fresh from the very beaches you are enjoying. Lie in the sun and enjoy the beach or swimming pool, and the panoramic view worthy of a postcard.

Where to Stay ?

There are a series of rustic eco-friendly cabins with two bedrooms and a bathroom. Solar-powered, they are very cozy but there is no television and only a few electrical outlets. And if the term “rustic” worries you, don’t worry. They are fully equipped including hot running water. Cabañas de Villa del Mar, $350 pesos per person, includes breakfast. More info: 044 (322) 278-8370.

Mayto

Located 82 kilometers from Puerto Vallarta, the approximate travel time is two and a half hours. I arrived at night and the first thing you see along its beaches is a series of lights and the canvas tents that make up the turtle camp.

Mayto Treasures

Belonging to the University of Guadalajara, the turtle camp was created in July 2005. It is tended by biologist Israel Llamas. The beach is 17 kilometers long, providing ample place for the sea turtle nesting. They are equipped with the latest technological systems, such as solar panels that produce electricity with generators powered by windmills, as well as sensors for their incubation systems and satellite internet. Since its inception, 210,000 offspring have been released, yet their survival rate remains only 2%.

This campground receives more than 11,000 visitors a year from about 20 countries, with 300 to 400 high school students from Puerto Vallarta participating in the patrolling and release of marine turtles, as well as helping paint walls, reconstruct paths or any other task the community may require.

If you wish to visit the campgrounds, there is no need for a reservation. Admission and activities within the campground are open to the public and completely free, although they welcome any monetary donations.

The Little Mayto Beach is a great paradise. Just imagine, 17 kilometers of pristine white sand beaches! You can camp on these beaches, or if you prefer, there is an 11-room hotel; the only hotel in this region, with all the expected amenities and affordable prices. Hotel Mayto, $400 per adult & $200 per children, more info: 045 (333) 177-2184.

The restaurant in the hotel, with its spectacular view of the ocean, offers a simple but well seasoned selection. You can enjoy a complete breakfast for $50 pesos, and dinner and a drink would cost no more than $150 pesos.

Among the activities available are kayaking, visiting the turtle camp, walking on the beach until reaching the bluff or simply enjoying a swim in the ocean. The tide is very intense however so use extreme caution.

These beaches are hidden and free of stores and large resorts. I hope you enjoyed our trip through Cabo Corrientes, full of hidden jewels waiting to be discovered.

Escape to a place where the turquoise water is hypnotic and the soft sand caresses away stress. And don't forget to try regional products such as coffee, raicilla, panela and other types of cheese, a hot corn and coconut drink, and cookies baked by Doña Marta in El Tuito

*Travel Tips:

Don’t forget to pack your sun block, insect repellant and a basic first aid kit. If you want to get here driving, fill up with gasoline in Puerto Vallarta, because there are NO gasoline stations along the way.

Medical Emergencies : Mayto offers a health center, which is a single medical office, and there is another health center in the nearby town of La Cruz de Loreto, but the nearest hospital is in Puerto Vallarta.